Jaisalmer has always held a special place in our hearts. Years ago, like most first-time travellers, we found ourselves at Sam Sand Dunes, soaking in the desert sunset, enjoying cultural performances, and experiencing the thrill of a camel ride. It was magical, no doubt. But something felt missing. A quiet longing, an unspoken void.
This year, as february approached, I felt an undeniable pull to reconnect with Rajasthan’s soul: the raw, untouched essence of its desert life. And that’s when I stumbled upon Khuri. The more I read, the more I knew, this was the experience I had been craving.
Now, as I sit down to write this, my heart is full, overwhelmed with the warmth and authenticity Khuri offered us. This isn’t just a place; it’s a feeling. A home away from home.
And I can promise you this- once you experience Khuri, you’ll find yourself longing to return, even as you step back into your own home.
Let us take you on this journey- beyond the usual tourist trails, into the heart of Rajasthan’s most authentic desert escape.
How to Reach Khuri ?
Khuri is located about 50 km from Jaisalmer city, making it an easy and scenic journey. The roads are well-paved, and if you’re on a road trip to Jaisalmer (like us!), you’re in for a treat.
As you drive towards Khuri, the landscape slowly transforms vast golden dunes, scattered desert vegetation, and an endless sky that feels straight out of a postcard.
Alternatively, you can hire a private taxi from Jaisalmer, which is the most comfortable option. Expect to pay around ₹1,500–₹2,500, depending on the season.
Why Khuri is a must-visit for Offbeat Travelers ?
Unlike the bustling Sam Sand Dunes, where tourism has taken over, Khuri embraces you with its quiet charm.
We reached Khuri around 1 PM, just as the midday sun bathed the village in a golden glow. The first glimpse was nothing short of breathtaking- endless sand dunes stretching into the horizon, rustic mud houses, and locals going about their daily lives with an unhurried grace.
It felt as if we had stepped back in time, far removed from the chaos of city life.
Here, in Khuri, life moves at its own pace. Group of camels strolled lazily, women in vibrant ghagras doing daily chores. It wasn’t just a place; it was a feeling- raw, untouched, and deeply rooted in tradition.
Khuri seems to exist in a time untouched by modern rush- where women used to walk kilometers to the well, balancing matkas (water pots) on their heads, making multiple trips to feed their goats. This daily routine has even inspired a traditional Rajasthani dance form known as Bhowai Nritya, where tribal women perform intricate movements while balancing a series of matkas on their heads. Watching this dance gave us goosebumps!
Even today, many women in Khuri continue to follow the tradition of ghoonghat (veil), adding to the village’s old-world charm. We also came across the traditional wells, where some locals still prefer to drink water directly from them.
Though today, most people in Khuri have built brick-and-mortar homes, some still cherish the simplicity of living in traditional mud houses. These homes, with their natural cooling effect and earthy aroma, are a testament to the age-old wisdom of desert living.
If you’re looking for more offbeat destinations in India, don’t miss our guide to An Epic Road Trip to Orchha and Khajuraho – Travel Tips and Itinerary.
What truly made Khuri special was the people- their warmth, their music, their stories. Sitting in a traditional mud house, listening to folk songs that have been passed down for generations, we realized that Rajasthan isn’t just about its grand palaces or vast deserts- it’s about the soul of its people.
Their hospitality, joy, and deep-rooted traditions made us realize how rich they truly are. For them, music isn’t just entertainment; it’s a way of life, a tradition deeply woven into their culture.
We also visited the Khuri Sand Dunes, and wow- what a sight to behold! There were no crowds, no noisy tourist activities; just us, the dunes, and the sound of the wind whispering through the desert.
Unlike the more commercialized dunes of Sam, Khuri felt raw and unspoiled, allowing us to truly connect with nature. What surprised us the most was the unexpected greenery in the heart of the desert. We spotted goats and sheep grazing on patches of vegetation, a sight we hadn’t associated with Rajasthan before.
Talking to the locals, we learned that the monsoon breathes life into the desert, transforming the landscape with lush vegetation. Crops like cumin, millet, and even some seasonal herbs flourish in this arid region, proving just how resilient and resourceful desert life can be.
Rajasthan’s Haunted Village!
Some places make you wonder- what really happened here all those years ago?
A 45-minute drive from Khuri took us to one of Rajasthan’s most mysterious places: Kuldhara, the abandoned village. As legends say, 300 years ago, the entire village, along with 83 neighboring villages, vanished overnight, leaving behind nothing but abandoned homes and unanswered questions. It is believed that the Paliwal Brahmins, who once inhabited Kuldhara, cursed the village before leaving, ensuring that no one could ever settle here again. Even today, no one dares to stay after sunset.
Perched on a hill, Khaba Fort overlooks Kuldhara. The fort once served as a vital stop for traders traveling through the Silk Route. It gives the panoramic view of the desert, dotted with ancient ruins and wandering camels.
According to locals, anything taken from the village- be it a stone, a piece of wood, or even a handful of sand- brings misfortune and destruction to the person’s home.
Our Beautiful Stay in Khuri
Imagine waking up to the sight of endless sand dunes, camels strolling lazily and a sky where the moon still lingers as the sun slowly rises. The only sounds you hear are the melodious chirping of birds and the soft rustling of the wind.
This is exactly what we experienced at Pal Rajah Resort, Khuri, Jaisalmer- a stay that felt less like a resort and more like a doorway into Rajasthan’s true desert life.
This 20+ years old property, owned by Mr. Khem Singh Ji, offers a truly authentic desert experience. With 20 beautifully designed swiss tents and 3 basic mud houses, Pal Rajah Resort feels like a cozy desert hideaway.
We highly recommend staying for at least 2-3 nights to truly immerse yourself in everything this place has to offer.
The tents at Pal Rajah Resort were spacious and well-equipped with AC and heaters, ensuring a cozy stay no matter the season. The attached washrooms were clean and fitted with modern amenities, including a geyser.
However, do keep in mind that since it’s a desert region, the water can be slightly salty- a common experience in most places around Jaisalmer.
During your stay, don’t miss out on a sunrise camel safari- it’s one of the most peaceful and mesmerizing experiences you’ll have here. In the evening, you can head to the private dunes (yes, they have their own private dunes!) and watch the sunset in total solitude.
As night falls, the resort comes alive with a lovely cultural night, where you can enjoy delicious snacks and drinks while local artisans perform folk music. If you’re lucky, Rahim (aka Rahim Khan Kalakar) and Jalaal Bhaiya will be there to perform, adding an extra layer of magic to the evening.
For a thrilling experience, you can also go on a night safari and enjoy camping under the stars.
And if you ask us about the food- trust us, it’s some of the best you’ll ever have! The resort serves a variety of traditional Rajasthani curries – from Gatta Curry to Ker Sangri, Dal, and the sweet, crumbly Churma; oh-so-yummy!
The hospitality at Pal Rajah Resort is truly next level. From the moment we arrived, we were welcomed with warm smiles and genuine kindness. The staff here is not just professional- they’re friendly, loving, and go out of their way to make you feel at home.
We had the pleasure of talking with Mr. Jalam and Dinesh Bhaiya( the oldest among the caretakers). Their stories and the laughter we shared was truly special.
And just like that, our short trip to Khuri came to an end. But honestly, it didn’t feel like a goodbye- it felt more like a “see you again soon.”
If you’re planning a trip to Jaisalmer, make sure to add Khuri to your itinerary. If you have any questions, let us know below 🙂
Happy Travels!
