Imagine exploring a place that, not too long ago, remained completely cut off for nearly six months every winter due to road closures. Life here moved at its own pace, people survived with limited resources, cooked meals without onions and tomatoes, and depended on helicopters for medical emergencies, that too only when the weather allowed. Despite all this, people were happy and content.
These were some of the stories we heard during our recent road trip from Delhi to Keylong, Himachal Pradesh, a scenic town on the Manali-Leh Highway , one of the hub of Tibetan culture, known for its stunning Himalayan views and Buddhist monasteries.
Often seen as just a pit stop on the way to Leh–Ladakh, Keylong is a quiet town that most travellers overlook.
What many don’t know is that this region is also where the River Chenab originates at Tandi, formed by the confluence of the Chandra and Bhaga rivers. Little details like these make Keylong feel less like a stopover and more like a destination in its own right.
We visited in the month of December–January and in this blog, we’re sharing our entire experience–from the road conditions and winter vibes to all the amazing things to do in Keylong, so you can plan your own trip with ease.
Important Things to Know Before Planning a Delhi to Keylong Road Trip
- Keylong is best experienced slowly. It isn’t a place for rushing. It’s quiet, raw, and all about soaking in the landscapes.
- Winter weather can be extreme: If you’re visiting between December and March, be prepared for snowy days, freezing temperatures (upto -22 degrees! Yes!) and occasional road closures (towards passes). Always, always check the weather and road status before starting your journey. Read: Our Essential Winter Packing List.
- Network and Internet: Mobile network is great in Keylong though. Jio /BSNL works the best, offering 5G Internet.
- Carry enough cash: Although ATM’s and UPI work well, its advised to carry cash for emergencies.
- Fuel up in advance: There are very few fuel stations after Manali. Make sure your tank is full before crossing the Atal Tunnel. In winters, always keep extra fuel if you’re doing road trips.
- Road Conditions: Although roads to and from keylong are in good condition except for few rough patches. We will recommend a 4×4 vehicle only if you happen to visit during snowfall as roads can be icy, narrow, and slippery. At some places, snow chains are mandatory.
- Hotels in Keylong Himachal Pradesh in winter: Many hotels and homestays shut down during winters. We highly recommend calling your stay before booking and confirm if heating and hot water are available.
- Respect the local culture and environment: Keylong is a small, peaceful town. Be mindful of local customs, dress modestly, avoid littering, and travel responsibly to keep this place as untouched as possible.
- Medical facilities are basic: There are limited medical facilities, so carry a basic first-aid kit and any personal medicines you may need.
- The people of Keylong are extremely warm and friendly. You know it when you already feel homely with them and doesn’t want to leave.😊
Essentials We Carried for Our Delhi to Keylong Road Trip
- Portabale Air Pump: a must have, if you are a road trip lover as this comes in handy.
- Battery Operated Bidet: This is a must have (imagine when water freezes in pipes).
- Powerbank: We have been using this powerbank for a long time and it works great.
- Snow Chains: always keep them if you are planning to drive in snow.
- Portable Fan Heater: best decision we took.
- Thermos flask for hot water/tea.
- Sunscreen and Lipbalms: we never leave for a trip without these.
- Protein and Protein Bars: so that we are never hangry😃.
Delhi to Keylong Road Trip: Our Budget Breakdown
We spent around 8 days in Keylong (+2 stops at Manali & Chandigarh), and trust me it’s an extremely budget friendly destination (more than Manali).
For our trip, we spent approximately:
27000 INR on accommodation,
7000 INR on meals,
12000 INR on diesel and tolls, and
800~1000 INR miscellaneous over the course of 10 days.
Also Read: 5 Offbeat Destinations Near Delhi That Are Perfect for Road Trips
How to Reach Keylong from Delhi & Manali
The distance from Delhi to Keylong by road is around 650 kms. We started from Delhi around 6 AM, driving towards Manali, and after nearly 11 hours on the road– plenty of scenic breaks–we finally reached Manali and called it a night.
The next morning, we headed to Keylong via the Atal Tunnel. Manali to Keylong distance is 75 kms. We stopped for breakfast at SLS Restaurant, and it turned out to be a really good decision. The food was good, and the location was even better.
The road from Manali started off really well. The landscapes slowly began to change, some mountains still covered in snow, others completely bare and rugged landscapes that felt straight out of another planet.
After two hours of an incredibly scenic drive, we finally reached Keylong and checked into our homestay. The place is beautiful, and the views, honestly feel luxurious.
It’s 3:00 PM, and I’m sitting on an old, slightly broken bench, staring at a tall indigenous mountain right in front of me.There’s pin-drop silence all around. Just a few scattered houses, some still under construction, surrounded by rocky, rugged land. A cold wind keeps brushing past my ears–it’s sharp and chilling enough to make me reach for my snow jacket. It’s –4°C at 3 in the afternoon. The trees have dried up because of the cold, and up on the higher slopes, I can see water completely frozen in place. It feels quiet, surreal, and strangely grounding–like the world has paused for a moment.
Where to Stay in Keylong ?
We were lucky to come across this cozy, dragon-inspired homestay called Kyelang Times, tucked away in Lower Keylong village.
Owned by Mr. Ravi and Mrs. Pallavi, they have both dorms and private rooms, perfect whether you’re backpacking through the mountains or travelling as a couple, like us. The market is just a short walk away.
The rooms are well-equipped for winters, with electric mattresses, heaters, and hot water. Every morning, we woke up to majestic mountain views right from our room, and ended our days with simple, homemade meals. The internet connectivity was excellent, making it a great spot even for digital nomads who want to work with a view.
Best Places to See in Keylong
Keylong is truly so underrated. We explored so many places here, and each one surprised us in its own quiet, beautiful way.
Keylong Monastery: Kardang Gompa
Kardang Gompa is one of the most revered monasteries in Lahaul. We drove from Keylong via Gazwang village (it’s also possible to hike with help from locals). Founded around 200 years ago by Lama Norbu of Kardang village, the monastery houses his statue along with a striking six-foot-tall clay statue of Lord Buddha.
Its simple architecture, set against the dramatic mountain backdrop, is truly breathtaking. Home to about 8 monks and 15 nuns, Kardang Gompa also offers boarding and lodging for pilgrims.
When we left for Kardang, it was snowing lightly, and we kept wondering if it would last. By the time we reached the monastery and stepped inside, the snowfall grew a little stronger, not heavy, but just enough to make the moment feel special. The monastery was closed, but a kind monk opened it for us, offered us warm tea and local snacks we simply couldn’t say no to. We took blessings from the Buddha, exchanged a few quiet words, and stepped back outside to find the snowfall growing denser.
As I write this, snow is falling fast and steady. The view was already breathtaking, and now the snowfall has turned it into something unreal, almost as if the mountains themselves are blessing us.
Shashur Gompa
Shashur Monastery is one of those places where the history alone gives you goosebumps. The drive towards the monastery is slightly uphill and quite off-road.
Established in the 17th century by Lama Deva Gyatso, a missionary to the King of Bhutan. The lama later renovated the gompa and lived here until his passing. During his cremation, it is believed that his heart remained unburnt and was later enshrined inside a black statue of Gyatso.
In June and July, Shashur Gompa comes alive during the Cham Festival, where monks perform traditional masked dances.The monastery also houses a statue of the king, a 15–foot thangka (a traditional Tibetan Buddhist scroll painting), and wall paintings depicting various Buddhist siddhas, making it unique.
Yordong Gompa
Often missed by travellers, we found Yordong Gompa to be a unique cave monastery with stunning views of Keylong. Built around 200 years ago, it can be reached via a short 20-30 minutes hike.
It’s believed, the cave, located above Beeling village, was originally used as a meditation spot by Gyalwa Gotshangpa, a revered meditator whose footprints are still visible on the rocks above the gompa. In the early 13th century, this sacred cave was later developed into the monastery we see today.
Keylong Market
We went out for a short walk to explore Keylong Market, even though we later realised that it remains closed on Sundays. Walking through the market felt like stepping back in time. Little, colourful shops lined the street–displaying woollen clothes, bangles, small stationery items, and cozy cafés. What really stood out were the views. Surrounded by mountains, the market area opens up to some stunning scenery.
Also Read: Guwahati To Tawang Road Trip: Magical Mountains And Monastaries
Udaipur (Lahaul)
If you’re craving a spiritual detour, Udaipur is a must-visit, located about 50 km from Keylong. The drive is incredibly scenic, with mountains all around–though a few narrow and rough patches make it adventurous.
Start with Trilok Nath Temple, a revered pilgrimage site for both Hindus (Lord Shiva) and Buddhists (Avalokiteshvara Bodhisattva). Big giant Ghee diyas (40-50kgs) are lit here throughout the year. The temple complex feels calm, and nearby you’ll find small local shops selling affordable handicrafts made by local women.
From here, travel about 7 km downhill to Udaipur town to visit another ancient temple, believed to date back to the Dwapar Yug and built by the Pandavas and Lord Vishwakarma using a single tree (wow!). The intricate wooden carvings on the roof, walls, and pillars are stunning, although photography is not allowed inside the temple.
While interacting with locals, we learned about Faguli, a festival celebrated in February to mark the end of winter and welcome spring. People visit elders to seek blessings and share festive meals, with celebrations involving folk music, rituals, deity possessions, and traditional wooden mask dances, reflecting the region’s rich cultural heritage.
Lahaul Spiti Tribal Museum
Located right in Keylong market, the Lahaul–Spiti Tribal Museum is a hidden gem for history lovers. The museum offers a deep insight into Lahauli and Ladakhi culture, their simple lifestyle and beliefs with beautifully preserved artefacts donated by local people.
The museum is open from 10 AM to 5 PM, with a lunch break from 1–2 PM, and has a minimal entry fee of INR 50. It takes about an hour to explore and is definitely a must-visit in Keylong.
Zomsa – 80 year old mud huts
After a short uphill walk, we found ourselves at Zomsa, an 80-year-old traditional Lahauli mud house. It’s a popular homestay among backpackers and offers a beautiful glimpse into the local traditions and culture of Lahaul. The house also has a small museum, making the visit both immersive and informative.
Explore Local Villages of Lahaul
Keylong is all about experiencing raw, everyday mountain life. Take time to walk around villages like Beeling and Gazwang, where life moves slowly and simply, just like it has for generations.
On the way to Udaipur, you’ll pass through Lote village at an altitude of 9,840 ft, offering a glimpse into high-altitude village life. For more local experiences, visit Phura and Jhalma villages, where you can truly see, feel, and live the rhythm of Lahaul like a local.
Shinkhu La Pass / Baralacha Pass
The dramatic mountain passes in the region, connecting Lahaul to Zanskar. Sitting at a high altitude of 16700 feet, s an absolute delight, if you love offbeat routes and crowd-free mountain views. The road is adventurous, weather-dependent(closed during heavy snowfall), and best explored slowly.
Another iconic high-altitude passes on the Manali–Leh highway, sitting at around 16,000 ft, is Baralacha. It is motorable only during summer (May/June to October) due to heavy snowfall.
Note: Indian nationals must carry a valid identity proof (Aadhaar, Voter ID). Foreign nationals need a Passport and valid Visa. Keylong and nearby passes are at high altitude, which can cause Acute Mountain Sickness.
During the summer season, you can also explore Suraj Taal Lake and the Chandra Taal Lake, both known for their crystal-clear waters and dramatic high-altitude landscapes (for us they were unaccesible due to heavy snowfall).
Where to Eat in Keylong ?
Keylong may have limited food options, but the cafés and dhabas here are really good. One of our absolute favourites was Climber’s Café–we kept going back. Don’t miss their local dishes like Shapta, Thenthuk, Thukpa, Faley, dumplings, and wonton soup (you’ll thank us later😋).
Another nice stop is Shur Café, where you must try the Seabuckthorn tea, a local favourite. We also enjoyed stopping at a few roadside eateries along the way for Siddu and parathas, which felt satisfying after long drives.
After an immersive 10-day journey in Keylong, we headed back to Delhi with hearts full and a quiet promise to return–this time in summer, to witness the valley wrapped in lush greens.
We hope our experience has inspired you to plan a trip to this beautiful place that most travellers simply pass by.
